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Alpigraphie / Kröll Matthias - Grand Chambéry Alpes Tourisme

Our first family hiking trip in the Bauges Our magical night at the Coutarse mountain refuge

Some adventures start quite simply. A rucksack that’s a bit too full. Two overexcited children. The weather wavering between sunshine and clouds. And that little remark made at breakfast:

“What if we spent a night in a mountain hut?

We were already used to going for walks in the mountains with our 5- and 7-year-old daughters. Day hikes, picnics in the Bauges, hours spent outdoors building dens or watching insects. But going away for two days, sleeping up there and experiencing a proper family hiking trip… that was a first. And what a first it was.

We chose the Chalet Refuge de Coutarse, in the heart of the Bauges Massif. An ideal hike for a family’s first outing.

A 9.7 km loop with 588 m of elevation gain, a gradual climb, and, best of all, a cosy mountain refuge perched at an altitude of 1,604 metres.

The walk starts at Nant Fourchu, in Jarsy. Very quickly, the atmosphere changes. The cars disappear, and we gently enter another world.

The wide forest track runs alongside the River Chéran. The girls run ahead looking for “gold nuggets”, fascinated by the history of the old gold panners who once explored this wild river.

As for us, we’re already savouring something else: the peace and quiet.

Walking together, truly

When you’re out in the mountains with children, you move at a different pace. You stop often. To look at a flower. To listen to a bird. To pick up a ‘very important’ stick.

And in the end, perhaps that’s what true luxury really is. In the Coutarse forest, the tall fir trees provide incredible coolness. The girls turn the climb into a game of exploration. 

Of course, there were a few “Is it much further?”, but also plenty of “Wow, look at the view!”

Arrival at the refuge A moment frozen in time

After about two hours’ walk, the refuge finally comes into view. Nestled amongst the mountains, surrounded by silence and flower-filled meadows, the Chalet Refuge de Coutarse looks like a little cocoon in the heart of the Bauges.

And there, immediately, something changes. The rucksacks are dropped to the ground. So are the shoes. Faces relax.

From the terrace, the mountains seem endless. The girls discover the binoculars provided for spotting chamois. Time seems to slow right down.

The refuge is cosy, renovated with simplicity and great taste. Untreated wood, a large communal table, comfortable bedrooms… everything makes you want to stay a little longer.

A simple, magical evening in the mountains

We’ll remember that dinner for a long time to come. Authentic mountain cuisine – hearty and locally sourced. The girls devoured their gratin with the appetite of budding hikers. We shared a table with other families and a few mountain enthusiasts who’d also come in search of a bit of a break from it all.

Then night fell. No television. No mobile signal. No noise. Just the stars. Outside, a telescope allowed us to gaze at the sky. The girls discovered the Great Bear constellation, wearing headlamps and staring with eyes wide with wonder.

That moment is probably still my favourite. Seeing our children so fascinated by something as simple as a starry sky reminded us why we’d wanted to embark on this adventure in the first place.

Staying in a mountain hut with children much easier than you might think

Before we set off, we had a thousand questions:

Would they manage to walk? Sleep somewhere else? Put up with the lack of comfort? In the end, everything fell into place naturally.

The Coutarse mountain refuge offers real comfort for a first night in the mountains: family rooms, a warm atmosphere, a hot shower and a warm welcome.

The next morning, the girls were already outside before us, gazing at the mountains from the terrace. I think they felt a bit like explorers.

The Return pockets full of memories

The descent takes you through the meadows of Orgeval and along the famous “Chemin du Gros Fayard” – a steeper path lined with magnificent beech trees. The girls built a mini treehouse during a break.

We spotted animal tracks. And above all, we realised something. Family hiking doesn’t require you to be particularly fit. Above all, it requires a desire to share a simple adventure together.

Ever since that weekend in the Bauges, our daughters have often talked about “that night up there”. And so have we, probably because, in just two days, we felt as though we’d rediscovered something essential.

Why the Coutarse refuge? is perfect for a family’s first road trip?

A walk suitable for children aged 5–6 who are used to walking
A cosy and welcoming mountain refuge
A complete immersion in the Massif des Bauges Regional Nature Park
A real sense of adventure without having to travel far
Nature activities for children: spotting chamois, stargazing, and exploring local flora and fauna

In the rucksack

Water bottles / Fleeces and windbreakers / Mini card games / Binoculars & headlamps / Must-have soft toy

Our advice

Don’t focus on performance. Let the children set the pace.
That’s exactly where the adventure begins.

Frequently asked questions… and some very useful answers

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